An Comunn Uisge Beatha

The Newsletter for An Comunn Uisge Beatha
The Single Malt Whisky Society of Washington DC
Autumn 1999: Volume VII, Number 1


The Business of Whisky For most single malt enthusiasts, whisky is pleasure - pure pleasure. But for many Scots, whisky is business. In fact it's one of the biggest businesses in Scotland. Uisge beatha ranks fifth in export sales of manufactured goods after cars, aircraft, North Sea oil and derivatives, and high technology products. Exports are 90% of all sales and account of over £2 billion. The whisky industry employs about 12,000 people and procures over £2 billion in good and services in Scotland.

Not surprisingly, the country with the largest export in sales is the United States at £269.6 million in 1998. However, France imports the most quantities: 35.5 million liters. Apparently, the French prefer cheaper brands than Americans.

Graph of Whisky Exports As with any industry dependent upon exports, the whisky business is greatly concerned with excise duties and open international markets.

Based on alcohol content, whisky is taxed at a far higher rate than either beer or wine: 27.38p per 35ml as compared to 16.10p for beer (half pint) and 18.66p for wine (125ml.)

Whiskies are known by their frequently historic distilleries and their time-honored methods of production. Yet even the single malt whisky industry has seen mergers and buy-outs. In fact, one of the largest whisky corporations, United Distillers & Vintners (ER) Ltd., of Edinburgh owns over twenty-seven distilleries such as Cardhu, Cragganmore, Dalwhinnie, Lagavulin, Oban, Royal Lochnagar, and Talisker.

UK Duty on Alcohol Content Sixty-nine of the companies that produce and distribute whisky are members of the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA). This trade association has long lobbied the United Kingdom Parliament on issues including excise duties, international trade, intellectual property rights and trademark law, competition law, and workplace health and safety. With the new Scottish Parliament opening in April 1999, the SWA is focusing on those matters that have been "devolved" including business rates and fiscal issues, product labeling and standards, environmental impacts, health and social aspects of alcohol, and the Scotch Whisky Act which defines the types of whiskies.

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Corporate Ownership of Distilleries

Who owns the distillery of your favorite dram...? Here's the list, based on the membership of the trade association, Scotch Whisky Association.

Allied Distillers Ltd., Dumbarton
Laphroaig, Miltonduff-Glenlivet, The glendronach, Tormore

Isle of Arran Distillers Ltd., Mauchline
Glen Eason

Macdonald & Muir Ltd.
Ardbeg, Glenmorangie, Glen Moray

Ben Nevis Distillery Ltd., Fort William
Ben Nevis

Berry Bros & Rudd Ltd., London
The Glenrothes

Burn Stewart Distillers PLC., E.Kilbride
Deanston, Ledaig, Tobermory

Campbell Distillers Ltd., Ayrshire
Aberlour, Edradour, The Glenallachie

Dewar, John & Sons Ltd., Glasgow
Aberfeldy, Aultmore, Craigellachie, glen Deveron, Royal Brackla

The Edrington Group, Glasgow
Glengoyne

The Highland Distilleries plc, Perth
Bunnahabhain, Glenrothes, The Glenturret, Highland Park, Isle of Orkney, Tamdhu

Grant, J & G, Banffshire
Glenfarclas

Grant, Wm & Sons Ltd., Motherwell
Balvenie, Glenfiddich

Inver House Distillers Ltd., Lanarkshire
An Cnoc, Old Pulteney, Speyburn

JBB (Greater Europe) plc., Glasgow
Bruichladdich, The Dalmore, Isle of jura, Tamnavulin, Tomintoul Speyside, Tullibardine

London & Scottish Spirits Ltd., Surrey
Glen Torran

Morrison Bowmore Distillers Ltd., Glasgow
Auchentoshan, Bowmore, Glen Garioch, McClellands

Seagram Distillers plc., Paisley
The Glenlivet, Longmorn, Strathisla

Tomatin Distillery Co, Inverness-shire
Tomatin

United Distillers & Vintners Ltd., Edinburgh
Balmenach, Benrinnes, Bladnoch, Blair Athol, Brora, Caol Ila, Cardhu, Clynelish, Cragganmore, Dailuaine, Dalwhinnie, Dufftown, Glen Elgin, Glen Ord, Glendullan, Glenkinchie, Glenlossie, Inchgower, Lagavulin, Linkwood, Loch Dhu, Mortlach, Oban, Pittyvaich, Rosebank, Talisker, Royal Lochnagar

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The Business of Whisky: News Notes

France is Number One Whisky Importer: The increasing consumption of Scotch in France over the past 10 years has turned France in to the number one importing country of Scotch in the world with 9.9 million liters of pure alcohol imported last yea thus overtaking the U.S. In value however, the U.S. is still leading. The French seem to prefer quantity over quality -- and buy far more mid-value blends than Americans who prefer higher quality malts. Perhaps there is some accounting for taste after all...

Glenlivet in French Oak: A new Genlivet is being introduced to the U.S. market: The Glenlivet French Oak Finish. The new bottling is finished in French Limousin casks which are air-dried and toasted before filling. The company describes the effect of the wood on the whisky as imparting a "dry oakiness" and "delicate scented floral fragrance".

Laphroaig goes Green: Laphroaig Distillery has been presented with the first environmental award among malt whisky producers. Keith Tozzi, chief executive of the British Standards Institution said: "Laphroaig has distinguished itself through continually improving its environmental performance."

Glen Moray: Forget Madeira, Go for Chardonnay: A new class of whisky finishing is set to tickle the whisky connoisseurs palate. Forget Pedro Ximenez and Co. - Chardonnay has joined the game. Glen Moray has recently released a 6-10 year old bourbon-matured single malt which had been finished in Chardonnay casks for 6 months. Asked if Glen Moray was trying to target women with the new bottling, Glen Moray spokeswoman Cathy Law stated "We would not set out to target women, but the Chardonnay-mellowed whisky has proven popular with female drinkers at introductory tastings." To complement the Chardonnay-finish, a 12 year-old Glen Moray mellowed in Chenin Blanc casks is also in the works.

24 year-old Millennium Malt from Glenmorangie: Glenmorangie recently unveiled their malt for the millennium. It is a limited edition 24-year-old going at £175 a bottle. The "Glenmorangie Original" is limited to 2,000 bottles and comes with a hand-made label made to look like labels used in the 1920s. One such bottle was recently found near the distillery.

Glen Scotia Working Again: Good news for all connoisseurs of Campbelltown whiskies. The crew of Springbank, under the experienced eye of Frank Hardy (Springbank General Manager), began distilling operations at Glen Scotia in early May. Glen Scotia, owned by Loch Lomond Distilleries, had been silent since 1994. Springbank and Loch Lomond had reached an agreement by which the Springbank staff will carry on distilling at least until the end of July. The deal will then be reviewed by Loch Lomond. Mitchel Sorbie of the Loch Lomond Distillery Company has stated that he is "very pleased" with the agreement - a good sign for continuing operations. Plans are to warehouse all casks directly at Glen Scotia

Queens Award goes to Glenmorangie: Five of eight Queens Awards for export achievements in the food and drinks sector go to Scottish companies dealing in traditional Scottish products. Among the winners is the single malt distiller Glenmorangie which received it's first such award. Although Glenmorangie has been involved in large scale exports for only 4 years, it has moved up the ladder to number 3 in the malt whisky business and now does 40% of its business outside the UK. Another winner was Macallan, no newcomer to this award - it is their fourth to date and second in a row! Macallan does 60% of its business outside the UK in more than 50 countries. Other winners were shortbread baker Walkers's and MacDuff (fish) as well as McCormick Europe's Condiment Division, an American company which supplies McDonalds, among others.

William Grant set to release rare Casks of Ladyburn: A number of casksof the highly sought after Ladyburn are apparently still in vaults of William Grant. The rare casks, between 20 and 30 years old, come from the Ladyburn Distillery which was part of Grants' Girvan grain distillery. Malt distilling there stopped in 1974. Grants are now considering the best way to market the rare scotch.

New Releases in the U.S.:

  • The Glenlivet Archive 21 Year Old selected from 21 - 40 year old casks

  • Highland Park Bicentennial bottlings will be out soon

  • New Macallans: 15 & 30 year-olds at about $50 and $350 respectively

  • "Scottish Classic" 40-year-old by Glenfarclas realeased as millenium whisky with specially-commissioned labels representing the works of Robert Louis Stevenson, Robert Burns, and Sir Walter Scott

News edited from the from the Whisky World Newsletter, located on the web at
http://www.whisky.de/e_whiskylibrary/newsletters/default.htm.

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The Business of Whisky: Gaelic Whiskies

Praban na Linne Limited was founded in Skye in 1977 by Sir Iain Noble of Eilean Iarmain. The whisky company has its headquarters and principal staff in Skye - making it the only whisky company with a head office in Skye or the Hebrides.

Té Bheag

In 1977, Praban's first blended whisky "Té Bheag" was introduced with a wholly Gaelic label. For the rest of the world, information was provided in English on the back of the label, said to be "easiest read the morning after finishing the bottle." Designed specifically for the Gaelic-speaking Hebridean Islands, "Té Bheag" is married in sherry casks for three to six months after blending.

News of "Té Bheag" reached Nova Scotia, especially the island of Cape Breton where there is still a community of fifth-generation Gaelic speakers. Regulations in Canada require that all products be labeled bilingually, meaning English and French. "We have our own bilingualism in Nova Scotia" stated a senior executive of the Nova Scotia Liquor Commission, and authorized the importation of "Té Bheag" with labels in Gaelic and French

Poit Dhubh Poit Dhubh

"Poit Dhubh" went on sale to the public in 1982 as a 12 year old very fine malt whisky. The name means "black pot" and is the term used in Gaelic for an illicit still. In the nineteenth century, some smugglers had a reputation for making the very best of whiskies. In 1991 a 21 year old "Poit Dhubh" was introduced.

For 20 or 30 years it has been the practice to chill and filter whiskies in order to remove the natural proteins. This prevented it from clouding when cold or when water was added. The Praban team decided to revert to the pre-war ways by offering an unchilled unfiltered whisky, as the proteins are the heart of the dram, keeping it soft and smooth. The new "Green Label" Poit Dhubh was supplied in traditional dark green bottles at 46% strength.

Brief Gaelic Lesson

Té Bheag (chay-VECK) means "little feminine one", but is also an affectionate term in Gaelic circles for a dram or a "wee half". Poit Dhubh (potch-GOO) is "black pot" but is also the expression used for an illicit still. Praban na Linne, the name of the company, means "the little whisky center by the Sound of Sleat."

This article was edited from information at the Praban na Linne website located at http://www.smo.uhi.ac.uk/Eilean_Sgitheanach/Praban_na_Linne/gaelic_whiskies.htm

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Water of Life: To Your Health!

"To your health!" is no longer merely a toast but a scientific fact. A joint Scottish and Danish study released in December 1998 indicates that whisky helps combat heart disease. According to the research, drinking Scotch Whisky raises the body's antioxidants which protect against coronary heart disease. Other drinks also raise antioxidant levels, but the good news for Scotch drinkers is that the protective effect is heightened for those drinking whisky rather than red wine.

The study, led by the Rowett Research Institute in Aberdeen, compared the effects of drinking Scotch Whisky and red wine on raising the antioxidants found in earlier studies to help protect against heart disease. In both cases, the antioxidant levels rose but, for those drinking Scotch Whisky, a greater proportion of the drink's phenols, which provide the protective effect, are absorbed. The research, published in the European Journal of Clinical Nutrition, reported the increased antioxidant impact on male volunteers aged 23-47 years old who, on separate occasions one week apart, each consumed 100ml of Scotch Whisky and red wine.

The word "whisky" comes from uisge beatha, the Gaelic for "water of life." It seems our Gaelic ancestors knew what they were talking about!

Uisge Beatha

Gaelic Whisky
moderately taken, sloweth age;
strengtheneth youth;
helpeth digestion;
cutteth the phlegm;
it cureth the dropsy;
it poundeth the stone and repelleth gravel;
it preserveth the head from whirling;
the tongue from lisping;
the teeth from chattering;
the throat from rattling;
the heart from swelling;
the guts from rumbling;
the hands from shivering;
the sinews from sinking;
the veins from crumbling, the bones from aching;
and is truly a sovereign liquor if it be orderly taken".

Raphael Holinshed, from Holinshed's Chronicles 1577.

More Toasts to Your Health!

  • May we be happy and our enemies know it!

  • May the best we've ever seen be the worst we'll ever see!

  • May opinion never float on the waves of ignorance!

  • May we live in pleasure and die out of debt.

  • Health of body, peace of mind, a clean shirt and a guinea.

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March Tasting: Glenmorangie & Deanston

An Comunn Uisge Beatha members Barry Forbes and Nicholas Freer hosted the first spring tasting on March 21, 1999.

Glenrothes Loch Morar The first to be offered was a Speyside malt, Glenrothes 16 year old, 1982. The nose had a hint of caramel and citrus. The palate had a bite in the front of the mouth but then smoothed out, with a light orange finish.

The Highland-distilled Loch Morar 12 year old had a light flowery nose, with a little honey and vanilla palate. As one member noted, the finish "had a warmth that hangs in back of your throat." Another member suggested that it would be a breakfast whisky because "no one could smell it on your breathe at the office…!"

Glenmorangie 18 Deanston 12 Another Highlander was the Deanston 12 year old with a delicate sweet nose, a taste of apple in the palate, and a "nice peppery finish."

The older brother Deanston 17 year old had a light nose but was not quite as sweet. The stronger palate had touches of sherry and caramel. The finish vanished quicker than expected - as one member noted a "slam-bam-thank-you-ma'm" whisky.

Rounding out the tasting were two more Highland malts. The Glenmorangie 18 year old had a light caramel and citrus nose, similar to the Glenrothes. The palate was "nice and warm" - and as one member suggested, "it feels like you're drinking something!" The Glenmorangie Port Wood Finish 12 year old, not unexpectedly, had a nose redolent of port. However, the palate was far more peppery.

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Johnnie Walker May Tasting Leads off with "Mystery Malt"

Aberlour 10 The May tasting was hosted by Jeanann Murphy and Tony Calio of McLean on Sunday, the 16th. Rebecca Aronson started off the tasting with a "mystery malt."

The mild nose was slightly floral and malty. Members agreed that the mild palate had "no smoke, no iodine, and not much fire - a luncheon malt."

No one guessed that the whisky was a Johnny Walker Green Label single malt! Rebecca pointed out that the whisky was vatted but contained no grain alcohol. A good introductory single malt for folks who liked Johnny Walker!

Glengoyne 17 Balvenie 12 The Speyside single malt Aberlour 10 year old had a light nose. The peppery palate had a nice bite that mellowed out for a long finish. Members felt that it was "smoother" that the Johnny Walker, had "a nice fire without bite - it smolders," and that it "holds up over time." Rebecca noted that Aberlour was very consistent and relatively inexpensive.

Next on the bill of fare was the Dufftown-based Balvenie 12 year old DoubleWood. The whisky had a very light sweet, floral nose. Both the palate and finish were mild. The western Highlands Glengoyne 17 year old was a gift to the society at the 1998 Virginia Scottish Games - and was appreciated by all. The single malt had a very light nose with touches of coconut and caramel. The palate was very peppery and sweet without being fruity.

Springbank Longmorn 15 The Speyside Longmorn 15 year old had a light nose with a hint of citrus. The palate was refreshingly fruity and the finish was mild. As a member noted, "the whisky to give some one who says they don't like Scotch!"

Members were in for a real treat with the Campbelltown-based Springbank 12 year cask strength! The nose was light with an air of musk. The palate uncovered a lot of caramel without much iodine. Although some felt that it was "too much caramel," many felt that the whisky had a delightful flavor.

After a straw poll, the Springbank came out ahead with about eight votes as being the favorite of the tasting, while all the others received two to four votes each. All, that is, except for the Johnny Walker Green Label - which came out dead last with no votes at all!

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Rebecca Aronson & Jimmie Byrd Honored for Service to An Comunn Uisge Beatha

Rebecca Aronson and Jimmie Byrd have been a constant and comfortable presence at An Comunn Uisge Beatha (ACUB) tastings for many years. As Toisich (leader) of ACUB for eight years, Rebecca has updated the mailing list, processed the membership fees, maintained the checkbook, coordinated the hosting of each tasting, acquired bottles of single malt whiskies, selected the five or six for each tasting, kept tasting paraphernalia in stock and transported them to each tasting, and lead the spirited discussions. Jimmie has been by her side for six years, assisting with the tastings and administration of the society.

ACUB at the Virginia Scottish Games Not the least of their efforts have been ACUB's two-day presence at the annual Virginia Scottish Games - a grueling event involving transporting and setting up the tent, chairs, tasting accouterment and whisky in the overpowering heat!

In spite of their amply demonstrated love of whisky and ACUB, both have decided that it was time for new leadership. The May 1999 tasting was to have been their swan song as leaders of the society.

As another measure of their commitment, both have agreed to stay for the next three tastings until a new toisich steps in. To relieve some of the burden in the meantime, ACUB members Amy McBurnie and Russ Shumway agreed to handle the society's presence at the 1999 Virginia Scottish Games.

Jimmie Byrd In recognition of their indefatigable efforts, Rebecca and Jimmie were presented with engraved pewter quaichs at the May 1999 tastings. Society member Barry Forbes made the presentation on behalf of all ACUB members - assisted by much acclaim by all present! If you have not yet done so, please express your own appreciation of the efforts of Rebecca and Jimmie to keep the society running and in whisky! Slainte mhor!

(By the way, it's still not too late to contribute to the costs of the quaichs! Please contact Barry Forbes for details.)

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Scotch Malt Whisky Society Hosts October Whisky Extravaganza in Washington DC

If tasting thirty-six different Scotch malt whiskies from over twenty-four distilleries is your idea of a good time, clear your calendar for Tuesday, October 26, 1999! That's the evening the Scotch Malt Whisky Society comes to town to host the "Single Malt & Scotch Whisky Extravaganza 1999" (including a full dinner) at the J.W. Marriott in downtown Washington D.C.!

Scotch Malt Whisky Society The Scotch Malt Whisky Society was formed in 1983 by a small group of Scots connoisseurs who had discovered the superiority of whisky taken straight from the cask. In flavor and, of course, in strength these whiskies are markedly different from the commercially bottled versions, which have been chill-filtered and diluted. The Society is based in Edinburgh and has a "casing" committee to select the choicest whisky for their own members. Every two weeks, the casing committee tastes cask whisky blind and purchases the casks which meet their own high standards.

This cask-strength whisky is bottled under the Society's own label and offered to their 4,500 members throughout the world. The Society's members receive regular newsletters listing the whiskies currently available in bottle. Orders are then sent via insured carrier to members in the United States. First year membership is $149 and includes the purchase price of a bottle of a rare malt whisky. Additional years are currently $25.

SMSW Whisky More information on membership is available from the Society's United States office at 4604 North Hiatus Road, Sunrise, FL 33351. You can call 1-800-990-1991, fax 1-954-749-2257 or e-mail Madeleine Shayne at scotchmalt@fujipub.com.

You can also receive membership information through the Scotch Malt Whisky Society website (newly designed and updated at their new web address!) at http://www.smws.com/.

If you're interested in attending the "Whisky Extravaganza," please contact ACUB member Barry Forbes who is organizing "corporate tables" at a 10% discount! The cost is $60 for Scotch Malt Whisky Society members and $70 for non-members. You can save $6 or $7 and enjoy the evening with your friends from An Comunn Uisge Beatha! Contact Barry at 703-683-6411 (eves), 202-887-0301 (days) or e-mail bforbes@igc.org.

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Featured Distillery: Oban: Little Bay of Caves

Oban 14 We had the good fortune to have Angus Smith, Scotland's Gold Medallist in Gaelic singing, as our houseguest recently. Angus was the featured artist at the An Comunn Gaidhealach America (Gaelic Society of America) national Mod (competition) at the Ligonier Scottish Games in Pennsylvania. He brought a guest gift of a bottle of whisky from his hometown of Oban. And we gave him an air mattress on the livingroom floor. I think we got the better deal -- so I've chosen Oban as this issue's featured distillery... -- Editor

According to Scottish legend, the first settlers arrived on the mainland in 5,000 BC and sheltered in the natural caves of the land then known as "an ob." These caves were hidden in the Creag a' Bharrain cliffs which rise dramatically above the Oban Distillery of today. The now ruined Dunollie Castle was built as the northern-most outpost of the Dalriadic Scotti six hundred years ago. Today, the town of Oban has a resident population of 8,500 and is the unofficial capital of the West Highlands - the "Gateway to the Isles."

Oban Map The Oban Distillery is the western-most of the West Highland distilleries. It was built in 1794 by Hugh Stevenson who hired an experienced Lowland distiller to manage the business. The distillery remained in the hands of the family until 1866. Between then and 1930, the distillery changed hands five times and is now owned by United Distiller & Vintners, Ltd.

The distillery produces a 12-year-old at 43% and a 14-year-old, also at 43%. Both versions have a whiff of the sea with a smoky peatiness and a smooth body and fruity undertones. The 14-year-old is more assertive with a more aromatic and less sweet finish

Oban Distillery The distillery is open all year generally from 9:30am to 5:00pm, Monday through Friday. From July through September, the hours are 9:30am to 8:30pm, Monday through Saturday.

Visits are available in December through February by appointment and at other times by arrangement in advance. Contact: Oban Distillery, Oban, Argyllshire, Scotland, PA34 5NH, +44 (0)1631 572004 or +44 (0)1631 564262.

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