An Comunn Uisge Beatha

The Newsletter for An Comunn Uisge Beatha
The Single Malt Whisky Society of Washington DC
Autumn 1998: Volume VI, Number 2

Beyond Whisky Roulette Beyond Whisky Roulette:
Developing a Taste for Single Malt Whisky

The bewildering array of different single malt whiskies -- and their top-drawer prices -- tend to daunt many budding enthusiasts. An Comunn Uisge Beatha helps its members to nurture a taste for the fine whiskies through regular tastings. These social and educational events help separate a Laphroaig from an Isle of Jura and a Poit Dhubh from a Loch Dhu. Beyond these "taste-test drives," a whiskiphile is left to play an expensive game of roulette with the few feet of single malt shelf space. The decision is always whether to go with the tried-and-true -- or plunk down $30 to $60 on an interesting-looking label.

As in life, expensive does not necessarily mean good -- and everyone has different tastes and moods. That's why this guide to developing a taste for single malt whisky was conceived. Not only will you be able to judge a whisky by its label, so to speak, but also to understand the complex interaction of the region, distillation process and length, and alcohol content -- and how it affects the smell, taste and ultimate enjoyment of whisky.

Back to index.

Whisky Regions of Scotland The Whisky Distilling Regions of Scotland

Each single malt distillery produces a whisky with a distinctive "personality" -- a combination of color, nose, body, palate, and finish. However, whisky distilleries in similar geographic areas generally produce single malts with some common-alties due to similar micro-climate (in-land verses ocean-side, for example), wild yeasts, source of water and grain, and malting processes.

The major whisky-producing regions are Highland, Lowland, Islay, and Campbeltown (which now has just two distilleries.) The Highland region is further divided into the districts of Speyside, Northern Highland, Eastern Highland, Perthshire and Island.

Lowland

The Lowlands of Scotland include the areas surrounding Edinburgh, Glasgow, and the River Clyde. The area has few peat bogs, little granite, and minimal impact of the salty sea breezes. This produces an easy supply of fine barley and pure spring water. Lowland malts tend to be drier, sweeter, and lighter than the whiskies of other regions. Some examples include Auchentoshan, Bladnoch, and Glenkinche

Map of Islay Islay

The island of Islay lies off the south-western coast of Scotland in the lower Hebrides. The single malt whiskies are the most distinctive and pungent, heavily influenced by the vast peat banks and strong sea air. The region produces a generally peaty and smoky, often with a touch of iodine. Examples include Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Caol Ila, and Bunnahabhain.

Campbeltown

Campbeltown is situated on the shore of the Mull of Kintyre, the long peninsula just south of the islands of Islay and Jura. While Alfred Barbard's Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom listed twenty-one distilleries here in 1886, only two exist today: Springback and Glen Scotia. These single malts are somewhat peaty and smoky, with a touch of salt from the sea.

Map of Speyside Speyside

The Speyside Region generally centers around the Spey River and Dufftown, from Grantown-on-Spey in the south to Elgin and Lossiemouth in the north and from Forres and Elgin in the west to Keith and Huntly in the east. About forty distilleries are clustered in this region -- roughly half of all Scottish distilleries -- and produce some whiskies that tend to be sweeter, fruitier, and more finely balanced. Many distilleries use pure underground springs, which flow over and through granite hills. With less peat available to dry the malt, distillers used the more abundant coal. Here, the air is heavy with heather, rather than the tang of the briny sea. Some of the more well-known single malts include The Balvenie, Glenfiddich, and The Macallan.

Northern Highland

The Northern Highlands stretch from Inverness-shire north to Wick in Caithness, on the northeast corner of Scotland. This mountainous region depends on streams flowing over granite hills, cooled by the breezes laden with the aroma of heather. These single malts tend to be more mellow and flavorful. Here Dalwhinnie, Royal Brackla, and Glenmorangie are distilled.

Eastern Highland

The Eastern Highland region is centered around Aberdeenshire, from Banff (Banffshire) in the north to Montrose (Angus) in the south. These whiskies are generally dry and fruity, such as the Glen Garioch and Old Fettercairn. Close to Balmoral castle is distilled Queen Victoria's favorite dram, Royal Lochnagar.

Perthshire Malt Bordering the Lowlands, the Perthshire malts naturally tend to fall between the characteristics of the lighter Lowland whiskies and those of the more complex malts of the Speyside. Examples include Deanston, The Edradour, and Glengoyne

The Islands

The Islands of Skye, Jura, and Mull to the west and Orkney in the north are far more similar in their terrain than in the whiskies they distill. Generally, these islands produce somewhat peaty and smoky malts -- some similar to Islay whiskies and some more closely resembling the complex Northern Highland whiskies. The more notable malts are Scapa (Orkney), Highland Park (Orkney), and Talisker (Skye).

Back to index.

Distill My Beating Heart: Making Whisky from Malt to Maturity

A bit more complex than changing water into wine, transforming lumpy barley porridge into fine single malt whiskey is at least within our mortal hands. And many use the result to reach their own private heaven! Even with modern techniques available, today's malt whisky distillers still continue to use a basic process which has spanned generations.

1) Malting: Barley to steeps to malted barley

Good Scottish barley is soaked in fresh local water for two to four days to become barley steeps. For twelve days or more, the steeped barley is then spread on a malting floor, turned daily either by hand in the traditional way or by machine. This allows the steeped barley to sprout, a process which releases some of its sugars. At the appropriate time, this germination is stopped by drying the barley a malt kiln over a peat or coal furnace. Most distilleries use peat, a ready source of fuel. Traditional malt kilns have a distinctive pagoda-style roof. Most distilleries acquire barley already malted, although some (including Laphroaig, Bowmore, Springbank, and Highland Park) malt their own barley.

2) Mashing: Malted barley to Grist to Wort

The dried malted barley is ground to grist in a malt mill. In a large vat or mash tun, the grist is mixed with hot water. This dissolves the sugar and produces wort, a sweet non-alcoholic liquid. This process is repeated to ensure that all the sugars have been collected. The solid remains of the barley are removed at this point and used as cattle feed.

3) Fermentation: Wort to Wash

The wort is cooled to about 70o C (168o F) and transferred to covered vats, or washbacks, where yeast is added and the process of fermentation begins. The yeast creates a chemical reaction which converts the sugars in the wort to alcohol. The process also releases carbon dioxide and a great deal of foam. This takes about two days and results in wash, a warm peaty beer with an alcoholic content of about 7.5%.

Whisky Distillation Process

4) Distillation: Wash to Low Wines to Spirits to Main Run

The wash is then heated in a wash still, traditionally made of copper. Since alcohol has a lower boiling temperature than water, the alcoholic steam rises up the still through its long spout to the worm, a condensing coil running through cold water. Each whisky distillery has a distinctively-shaped still which affects the final taste and body of the whisky produced. The distillate, now called low wines, is passed into the second still, the spirit still, where the process is repeated, with the liquid running off- into the glass-fronted spirit safe.

Some distilleries, such as Auchentoshan and the Irish Bushmills produce a lighter whisky through a third distillation. The "foreshots" or first distillate condensed from spirit still are passed back to the still. The skill of the stillman comes into play to determine when to pass on the "main run" of the distillation process to the maturation process -- and when to cut off the "main run" at the first moment of the "feints," or last of the distillate to be condensed. This judgment call is made more difficult because the distiller cannot smell or taste the liquid. The stillman uses a series of faucets and glass bowls to direct the condensing spirit. Foreshots contain impurities and turn cloudy when in contact with water. Therefore, the stillman tests the spirit by adding water at regular intervals and measures the specific gravity.

5) Maturation: Main Run to Uisge Beatha to Heaven

The main run is stored in a vat and mixed with water to bring it down in strength. The immature whisky is then casked and allowed to mature for an average of eight to fifteen years. The type of barrels used in the maturation process contribute greatly to the final color, flavor, and character of the whisky. The casks are occasionally tapped to ensure that the barrel is intact. The whisky is bottled after the appropriate age -- and only after the distillery "noser" approves it. The highly skilled noser will draw off a sample, carefully smell ("nose") the whisky, and swirl it around in a glass to inspect the viscosity or "body." Then the uisga beatha is off to be bottled -- and to be savored by whisky lovers around the world. Heaven!

Back to index.

Whisky Scotland Drink in the Countryside: A Bit of Scotland in Every Wee Dram

More than any other liquor, the single malt whisky is a pure embodiment of the land in which it is produced. Just as the geographic regions of Scotland vary, so do the whiskies produced in those areas differ in subtle yet important ways. In fact, every step of the distillation process offers a myriad of regional and distillery variations which affect the final product.

Malting: Barley and Malting Fuel

Subtle variations exist in the basic ingredients of the malting stage: the barley, water, type of fuel, and even the regional differences of the fuel. The barley literally absorbs the characteristics of the local soil and water. Many distillers use "Golden Promise" barley, however more are now using different higher-yield varieties, Macallan once experimented with a higher yield barley which produced a decidedly inferior "dusty" and almost metallic whisky. The smoke of the fuel used to dry the malt permeates the grain. While many distilleries in Speyside and the Lowlands use coal, most use peat which is an abundant resource throughout Scotland. This accounts for the distinctive "peaty" overtones in the final product of Islay and the Northern Highlands. The peat itself may cause variations in the type of "phenols" absorbed by the malted grains. For example, the peat in Islay contains a higher concentration of decaying heathers, mosses, and grasses. On the mainland, the peat has developed from decaying forests.

Mashing: Water and Rock

The influence of the water is greatest in the mashing process. Some distilleries use streams that flow through hills and plains of moss and heather -- which add a herbal or flowery taste. Many distilleries use pure underground springs, which flow over and through rocky hills. Even the type of rock affect the water. The carbon-iferous rocks of the Lowlands create a similar taste to such whiskies as Glenkinchie and Rosebank. The granite of the Grampians softens the water used for the Speyside whiskies. Bowmore and Bruichladdich use water that flows through some of the oldest rock in Scotland -- which seems to impart an iron-like taste. The sandstone of the northeast contributes to the firmer body of Glenmorangie.

Fermentation: Yeast

Different yeasts at varying temperatures create slight variations in the chemical reaction that transform wort is into wash.

Distillation: Potstills

The size and shape of each still has some influence on the distillation. For example, in taller stills, the alcoholic vapor condenses in the upper reaches of the still. This produces a lighter whisky. A shorter still will produce a richer and oilier spirit. However, the discussion of the effect of the height of the still seems down-right secular compared to the religious fervor devoted to the impact of shape of the potstill. All stills are constructed of copper and all are hand-crafted to strict speci-fications of each distilleries. When forced to add new potstills, some distilleries insist on recreating older stills down to the most minute dent and imperfection.

Maturation: Wood, Casks, and Air

The type of cask and length of maturation also greatly affects the final product. Most single malts are aged in casks of oak, while some regions and distillers favor chestnut mahogany. In the pine-covered land of the Scots, oak is unfortunately rare. So, in the early days, Scots re-used the oak barrels used to produce English sherry. When the English taste for sherry diminished, distillers began using American oak casks used in making bourbon. Bourbon casks (used at Glenmorangie) produce a whisky that is usually mild and sweet with distinct vanilla notes, whereas sherry casks (used for The Macallan) impart heavier wine notes to the malt. While the whisky matures, it "breathes" the local air. In distilleries on the coast and islands, this produces a distinct "seaweedy" or briny overtone.

Back to index.

REPRINTED FROM "THE GLENMORANGIE TASTING ROOM" WEBSITE

Linking Aromas to Creation

We asked the Scotch Whisky Research Institute, (SWRI), to attempt to link the origin of certain aromas to the steps in Glenmorangie's creation, and thus to the materials or methods used. To accomplish this task, they analyzed samples taken from successive stages of our production process. This involved tests on 'wort', ' fermented wash' and 'new make spirit' - along with samples of the more familiar 10 Year Old and 18 Year Old Glenmorangie. More of the strange-sounding liquids later, but for the meantime what did the eagerly awaited results hold? As we had hoped, SWRI were able to correlate the first appearance of most of the aromas to a particular stage in the manufacturing process. In particular, our unique conditions of fermentation, distillation and maturation appear to contribute successive aromas to Glenmorangie's increasingly complex bouquet. In the table below, we have listed the 20 aromas identified by SWRI, alongside the step of the process where each aroma was first detected. (They may become more pronounced at later stages).

Malting   almond, hazelnut
Fermentation   apple, banana, hay, rose
Distillation   honey, juniper, lemon, geranium
Maturation   cade, cinnamon, clove, coconut, vanilla
Sherry Wood   blackcurrant, brown sugar, orange, plum, raisin

Back to index.

Moderation sir, aye, moderation is my rule. Nine or ten is reasonable refreshment, but after that it's apt to degenerate into drinking. -- Old Scottish Highland Saying

The Subtle Art of Whisky Tasting

Nosing vs. Tasting

The true master blenders "nose" or smell the whisky rather than sipping it. This preserves the ability to "taste" after the first few samples. Obviously, unlike wine or other less alcoholic beverages, a distilled spirit anaesthetizes the taste buds. Moreover, smell is an intrinsic part of taste -- which discerns only the four basic flavors of bitter, salt, sweet and sour. In comparison, the human nose has over one thousand different smell-receptors and can discriminate between millions of subtle combinations.

While some people have more sensitive noses than others, everyone can learn to detect the basic aromas associated with single malt whisky. However, nosing is only a small part of the full enjoyment of fine whisky -- and An Comunn Uisge Beatha's social gatherings will undoubtedly remain "whisky tastings" rather than merely "whisky sniffings."

A Neat Dilemma

Whisky purists prefer their "wee drams" neat, without water. However, the full impact of the whisky is more fully appreciated when diluted with water. This releases the esters and aldehydes, making the aroma more pronounced. The amount of water to be added depends on the alcoholic strength of the whisky.

Experts suggest that the overall alcoholic content be reduced to about 20%. For example, whisky 40% to 43% alcohol by volume (abv) should be cut with one third to one half water. A higher strength of 60% abv or more should be diluted with twice its volume of water for sampling.

The water should be soft (without a high mineral content), tasteless, still (as opposed to sparkling), and, of course, drawn from natural Scottish springs. If you don't have immediate access to a Scottish spring, you may have to settle for Scottish bottled water such as Findlays or Highland Spring. Avoid highly chlorinated tap water unless you have a good water filer.

Even though whisky-tasters disagree as to whether to add water, everyone agrees that the best thing to add to whisky is more whisky!

Step One: Examining the Color

Immediately tossing back a wee dram may be some folks' idea of whisky tasting. But let's take a couple of preliminary steps. First, roll the whisky around in your glass and take a good hard look at the color. The color will depend on the length of time it was matured in the cask, the type of cask used, and on whether the barrel is on its first, second or third filling. For example, the Glenmorangie Port Wood Finish is matured in bourbon casks and then "finished" for a few years in port casks. This gives the whisky a distinctive pink tinge, resulting in the overall color of antique copper. The deep brown of the Loch Dhu (also marketed as the "Black Whisky") is derived from the use of charred casks. One whisky guide asserts that since dark whiskies appeal more to the eye, professional tasters often use cobalt blue glasses and red lighting to disguise the color of the whisky!

Step Two: Nosing the Aroma

First, the scientific reason for why we can usually smell better than we can taste. We sense aromatics or "volatiles" through the olfactory epithelium, which is located at the back of the nasal passage and is directly connected to the brain. That's why the nose provides a more immediate sensation than through the tongue or back of the throat. In general, malt whisky nosing is enhanced by using a small tulip-shaped or similar glass, such as a brandy snifter. The wide base provides a relatively larger area for the whisky to release its aromatics and the narrow rim concentrates them at the rim. (While the Society provides plastic shot glasses with a narrow base and wide brim, this may be the reason why members turn them upside-down so quickly.) The sense of smell is very subjective. Within the Society, different members have compared the aroma of the same whisky to "bananas," "licorice," and "rubber." However, attempts have been made to create a common language to describe the flavors and aromas of single malt whisky. For example, one whisky guides proposes seven main scent groups:

Esters:   fruit, flowers, peardrops, fragrant
Phenols:   medicinal, peaty, smoky
Aldehydes:   hay, grass, leather
Sweet associated:   vanilla, toffee, honey
Wood notes:   new wood, resin, old wood
Cereals:   malt, bread, wheat, toast
Oils:   butter, hazels, walnuts

Step Three: Determining the Body

Swirling the whisky in the glass helps to determine its viscosity. Then sipping and rolling it over and around your tongue to determine it's body and texture -- or "mouthfeel." Experts have divided malts into three textures:

Step Four: Tasting the Palate and the Finish

Rolling the whisky in the mouth will release more aromatics for the olfactory epithelium -- and create a more complex flavor than the basics of bitter, salt, sweet and sour. The following tasting terms have been compiled from various sources and may be used alone or in conjunction with each other when attempting to describe the taste and aroma of a whisky.

Apricot  Custard  Leather  Pears 
Amontillado  Cut-grass  Lemon  Peat 
Apples  Dates  Lime  Peppermint 
Bourbon  Dry  Licorice  Peppery 
Bitter Chocolate  Figs  Mahogany  Raisins 
Bananas  Flowery  Marshmallow  Roses 
Brine  Fruity  Medicinal  Salty 
Chocolate  Ginger  Nutty  Seaweedy 
Cinnamon  Hay  Oak  Smoky 
Citrus  Heather  Oily  Spearmint 
Coconut Herbal Oloroso  Spicy 
Coffee  Honey  Oranges  Vanilla 
Creamy  Iodine  Peaches  Woody 

The first impression of taste is called the "palate." The "finish" is the after-taste of the whisky. Determine whether the whisky taste fades rapidly or whether the flavor lingers, with echoes of earlier scents -- or completely different ones. As whisky connoisseur Michael Jackson notes, "When I leave the bottle, I like to be whistling the tune." Here's to many more "good shows" in whisky tasting!

Bibliography:

Back to index.

Slainte, Y'all: A Taste of the 1998 Virginia Scottish Games

During the Virginia Scottish Games on July 25th to 26th, the An Comunn Uisge Beatha tent was immensely popular with all members! Toisich Rebecca Aronson welcomed all members and their guests taste the fine whisky in partial bottles from the previous year. Friends from the Glengoyne Distillery generously donated whisky to the society. And when it comes to whisky-lovers, "friends of a feather" certainly flock together!

Games Photo #1 Games Photo #2
Games Photo #3 Games Photo #4

Back to index.

Single Malt Whisky Bottle Quiz

So you think you know your whisky by smell and taste? How about by the sight of the bottles? Here are the silhouettes of some of the more distinctive whisky bottles -- see if you can match them with the names below. The answers will be printed in the next edition of The Potstill -- or not, depending on the whim of the editor.

Bottles

_____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____

A. Highland Park E. Dalwhinnie H. Ben Nevis
B. Glenrothes F. Glen Moray I. Cardhu
C. Auchentoshan G. The Dalmore J. Bunnabhain
D. The Balvenie

Back to index.

| HOME | NEWS | EVENTS | GUIDE | JOIN | LINKS |
Copyright © 1999 An Comunn Uisge Beatha, c/o Rebecca Aronson
The Carriage House, High Street, PO Box 2182, Shepardstown, WV 25443
Webweaver: Barry Forbes, Access Enterprises, bforbes@igc.org